DINING FOR WOMEN'S "TRUNK SHOW" by Donna Shaver

Dining For Women’s “Trunk Show” by Donna Shaver

The Amber Fort in Rajhastan is yet another architectural marvel.  We were all stunned by its beauty, design, and engineering--the result of almost unlimited resources. It was constructed by the Hindu Kachhawaha, who were allied with the powerful Muslim Mughal Empire.   It was built in 1592 by Maharaja Man Singh I on the remains of an 11th century fort.

As we drove down the road, this huge complex arose on our left in the middle distance.  From the road, you see across a green plain a long walled roadway slanting ever upwards toward the imposing ramparts of the Amber Fort.  Looking closely you could see a long line of elephants making their way to the entrance to the fort, each carrying a mahawouat--the “driver”-- and two tourists facing out over the plain.    From this vantage point, you can see yet another fort higher on the hill following the ridge line.  We were to learn that the two were connect by secret tunnels in case of attack.

We joined the long line, which moved with surprising speed.  The next thing you know, you were standing on a platform in the “boarding area”--just the right height to to board the elephant. There is a platform on the elephant’s back, and the two of you sit facing out, feet on a footboard, and an iron bar across you as a handhold and safety precaution.  The elephant moves off so the next in line can take on passengers.

It takes a few moments to get accustomed to the slow, but substantial sideways rocking motion.  The elephants walk closely together, trunk to tail.  Each mahawouat decorates his own elephant, so many have painted flowers and flourishes on their trunks and side, or bangles.  Unlike African elephants, there is more natural color variation with the Asian elephants.  Many have large, diffuse pink areas on their heads and trunks, sometimes with naturally occurring gray or black spots.  

All along the way, there are photographers, blasting away with the hope of selling prints to the elephant riders.  We were all taken with the hyperkinetic Tony #1.  He fired away, following us over the incredibly uneven ground of the slope that rose in front of us, all the time shouting that he was “Tony #1, not Tony #2!”  He assured us he was the best.  (After our visit, we were set upon by many other photographers showing us the pictures they had taken of us.  We said “No!  Tony #2”.  One kept insisting he was Tony’s son, but we weren’t buying.  Indeed we did meet up with Tony #1 in the parking lot and bought our pics.  We were quite happy with the results.)

The fort itself is astonishing, both in size and beauty.  It contains many palaces and gardens, and is much larger than one might think.  The stone pillars, arches, and screens were breathtaking, as was the view of the valley below.

The Maharajah had 12 wives, each with her own palace within the fort.  They were both Muslim and Hindi, and each woman was allowed to worship in her own religion.  The queens’ palaces were arranged so that the queens had a huge and elegant courtyard in which they would spend time with each other.  Wisely, the Maharajah did not allow the queens to visit in each other’s palaces, so there was no jealousy or comparison.  In addition, there was a elaborate series of stairs so the Maharajah could visit one of the queens and none of the others could see where he had gone.  We agreed that the Maharajah was a wise man indeed.

Unfortunately, we had no elephantine assistance on the descent!

JANTAR MANTAR - ASTROLOGY / ASTRONOMY by Tina Romenesko

JANTAR MANTAR - ASTRONOMY/ASTROLOGY by Tina Romenesko

In the early 1700s, Jai Singh built 6 different sets of Jantar Mantar or Magical Instruments, designed to calculate time, location, and celestial movement more precisely.  I had heard they were amazing and astronomical in size - pun intended - but wow!  These instruments are immense in both size and accuracy.  

According to our guide, “These are the biggest, and the best!”  He went on to explain that, in his estimation, astronomy is the western equivalent of astrology.  We were all taken a bit aback at that statement, but isn’t it all the study of the stars and planets?  It’s what we do with the information that differs.  Is it applied to mapping the sky or our fate?  Telling time or calculating the exact place in the universe where we were born?  Astrological charts are calculated based on the exact date of birth, time, and location.  Jai Singh’s solar clock calculates the exact time and the exact place where you are on the earth - it is accurate to within 2 seconds - much more exact than your iPhone, or the doctor’s watch at your place of birth.  

He also created a huge fixed compass to locate the North star and calculate latitude.  Other instruments determine what house of the Zodiac the sun is in - and in order to track the sun’s movement more closely, he even built two half versions with large steps in between the reading areas - to further increase the accuracy with a close up view.

According to our guide, all of this information is a vital part of Indian culture.  Diwali (Indian New Year) changes every year, based on the heavens.  Both arranged marriages and love marriages look at the compatibility in the lovers astrological charts.  In some families, a marriage may not be allowed, based on this vital information, and wedding place and time is often determined not by the bride, but by the astrologer.  

Western astrology is more focused on your Sun sign, but our guide explains that here in India, it is the Moon sign that is most important.  I find it all fascinating and overwhelming - and so interesting that this astronomer from the 1700s felt it was important enough to map it all out on these Magical, giant sized Instruments.  

At the center of Jantar Mantar, there are 12 stations, each representing the signs of the Zodiac.  As I head over to Taurus, and have my picture taken with other Taurians, I observe that no where else in the world have I stood with a group of people that share my coordinates in the stars.  We have similarities that are determined by where we were born and when, even though we come is all races, and ethnicities, and from many different places on the earth.  Fascinating.

Astronomy or Astrology?  My iPhone dictionary (all that is available to me here in Ajmer…) describes the difference this way.  Astronomy - The branch of science that deals with celestial objects, space, and the physical universe as a whole.  Astrology - The study of the movements and relative positions of celestial bodies interpreted as having an influence on human affairs and the natural world.  Hard science or social science?  I think both views are valid.  Perhaps William Broad, New York Times Journalist and author of the Science of Yoga, sums it up best.

“Prove what you can, and be open to the rest.”  Lovely sentiment - facing reality with an open mind and heart.  Namaste.

MOSQUES, TEMPLES, and MORE by Tina Romenesko

The Baha"i Lotus Temple - Delhi, India

MOSQUES, TEMPLES, and MORE by Tina Romenesko

Among the most interesting aspects of Delhi for me, is the inclusion of many magnificent temples from many different religions.  

Yesterday we passed by the Baha’i Lotus Temple.  It was built in 1986 and is the newest temple of its tradition in the world.  The building was inspired by the lotus flower, and is composed of 27 Grecian marble petals, arranged in clusters of three to form nine sides.  It has 9 doors and 9 pools surrounding it on the spacious grounds.  We opted not to stand in the long line and go inside - the interior of all Baha’i temples is quite stark - as its primary purpose is for meditation.  It is truly an architectural wonder and is one of the most visited sites in Delhi.

Day Two we tried desperately to get to the Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in Asia,  before afternoon prayers. Unfortunately, the traffic in Chandni Chowk (the surrounding market) was so congested and crazy we arrived too late for entry. Only Muslims are allowed inside during call to prayer. With a little help from Sujata, two of our photographers, Susan Ackland and Christine Schwartz, were able to get up to the door and take photos for 300 rupees.  It is always awe inspiring to witness the Muslim call to prayer.  Prayer rugs, families, and of course the ritual of prayer itself.  The Jama Masjid was built between 1650 and 1656 and can accommodate 25,000 worshippers.  Since we couldn’t get in, we opted for a bicycle rickshaw ride around the narrow alleyways of Chandni Chowk.  Two by two we zig zagged through the chaos that had earlier delayed our arrival - and now was filled with a million different delights!  There are many wholesale sari shops in this area that sell the beautiful fabric most Americans know only from Bollywood movies.  They also sell the sequins, appliques, and bling!  None of us were up for 12 saris, the minimum purchase, but we certainly enjoyed window shopping from our rickshaw.  

The next stop was the Laxminarayan Hindu temple - dedicated to the goddess Lakshmi and Lord Vishnu, who is referred to as Narayan when in the company of the Goddess of Wealth and Abundance (remember her from Diwali?)  Built in 1939, the three story, yellow and red building is filled with a variety of altars honoring the many incarnations of Krishna, Shiva, Vishnu, Shakti, Saraswati, Hannuman, and Ganesha, et al.  It even includes an altar and image of the Buddha - as he is believed to be an avatar of Vishnu.  Sujata, our guide, believes that Hinduism is more of a way of life than a religion.  She also taught us about the god that is honored in the month of November - a lesser known deity named Kartik, who along with Ganesha, is a son of Shiva.  His vehicle is the peacock and he will be the inspiration for the Pushkar Festival that we will be attending in a few days!  

On the way toward the India Gate and government buildings, we pass the white and gold Sikh temple.  Taryn Walker celebrated Diwali (a national holiday with spiritual roots)  at the temple with Sanjeev, our host at Grace House.  She asked about the background of the Sikh garb.  He replied that the clothing and turbans were originally intended to make the men look fierce, and that Sikhs were originally Hindus that decided it wasn’t necessary to pray to all the Gods and Goddesses - otherwise their beliefs are similar.  Interestingly, Sanjeev’s wife is Pentecostal, so his wife and two daughters were dropped off at their own place of worship for Diwali - a celebration celebrated across all religions in India.  We didn’t visit any Christian cathedrals, but Sacred Heart in Delhi is large and well known.  Generally, there are more Catholics in the South and more Protestants in the North.   

Religious tolerance hasn’t always been the stalwart of India - during the Partition, many Muslims chose to move to the newly formed state of Pakistan.  After much killing and politically driven outrage, the country seems to have come to terms with its ethnic and religious diversity.  Muslims are called to prayer, children form long lines to enter the Hindu temple, everyday the Sikhs prepare 3 meals a days for the hungry, and the Baha’i welcome all to enter and meditate in their lavish lotus temple.  But the most poignant example comes a few days later in Jaipur, where the Anchal Project local leaders have created a home based sewing cooperative for young Muslim women living in the slums, to provide a stable source of income for basic family necessities.  The director of this project, Jaimala, is not Muslim, but clearly these projects are driven from the heart, and completely free of religious bias.  A strong reminder that when we strip away the exterior facade of our differences, we all share the same basic human wants and needs regardless of race, color, or creed.

Laxminarayan Hindu Temple - Delhi, India

AN ETHEREAL VISIT TO "THE TAJ" - by Donna Shaver

An Ethereal Visit to "The Taj" - by Donna Shaver

The astonishing white dome, barely visible in the hazy morning sky, rose above the deep red stone wall.  Just this preliminary glimpse of the iconic Taj Mahal was sufficient to bring a collective gasp of awe from our group.  We had waited in line for an hour and a half and that moment made it all worthwhile.

We piled into the bus at 6:15am for a short ride to the Taj.  Our most excellent guide, Sujata, secured our tickets and we joined the already lengthy line.  We had heard the day before that the sky would be hazy in the morning, but we decided to take our chances,  As we came at last to the red stone gate, the Taj Mahal was framed in the arch like a mirage.  I was surprised to find, in spite of the growing crowd, that each of us could capture that moment on our cameras unobstructed.  

Now the Taj could be seen in all its splendor.  In the gauzy light, the Taj seemed constructed from the sky itself, floating above the earth.  We spent quite a bit of time photographing the Taj and each other in front of the Taj, interspersed with long moments contemplating its ethereal beauty. We also had a group picture taken before making our way down the steps onto long path to the world’s most famous tomb.  

The Taj is a UNESCO World Heritage site and also widely considered to be the most beautiful and perfect building ever constructed.  It is completely  symmetrical, place squarely in the middle of high plinth with minarets on all four corners.  The minarets are ever so slightly leaning away from the Taj so that, in the event of earthquake, they will fall away from the tomb. The tomb is clad in exquisite white marble that came from Makrana in Rajasthan--a marble which is still used today.  It will not stain.  The outer walls are decorated with inlaid precious stones such as malachite, carnelian, and lapis lazuli in a process called pieta dura.  There are as many as thirty different types of precious and semi-precious stones used in that process.  In addition to the inlay work, there are beautiful marble bas relief flowers and plants.  A wide border around the arched door has Arabic script that become incrementally larger as it is further from the base, giving the visitor the optical illusion that all the script is the same size.

But the Taj Mahal is as famous for its origins as it is for it astonishing beauty.  Shah Jahan ascended to power as Emperor of the Mughal Empire in 1628.  Mumtaz Mahal the second was the wife of the Emperor, and theirs was a marriage of fierce devotion.  She was with him on a military expedition when she died in the process of giving birth to their fourteenth child.  Shah Jahan spent the 22 years constructing the Taj Mahal as a tomb for his beloved.  It took 22 years and required some 20,000 laborers and 1,000 elephants (to haul the marble).  Mumtaz Mahal’s tomb is place in the very middle of the structure.  

His plan had been to build an identical tomb for himself out of black marble on the other side of the river, but that was not to be.  He is buried next to Mumtaz, creating the only asymmetrical element into the Taj Mahal.

We were moved, as most visitors are, by the fierce love that the Taj represents.  We saw the power of the Taj in a very special scene.  A young couple were sitting up on a alcove on the building.  Someone in our group noticed that the young man was proposing!  We kept our distance but couldn’t help but notice their tender exchanges.  Several times, the young man held his iPhone as arm’s length to take pictures of themselves--a 21st century update to documenting their special time.  I couldn’t resist.  Noticing him holding both of her hands in his, their heads nearly touching, lost in each other’s eyes--I took my own photo!

To top it off, our group picture is wonderful.  We all looked great, with the  most beautiful building in the world as our backdrop.  What a glorious morning!

 

BLISS YOGA - INDIAN STYLE by Tina Romenesko

BLISS YOGA - INDIAN STYLE by Tina Romenesko

We were up and out of the hotel by 6:45 a.m., headed back to Kairali spa for morning yoga in their beautiful garden.  Our instructor, Swami Ganeshanand, is the founder and leader of Ananda (Bliss) Yoga.  Dressed in traditional white guru garb, he moved us through an energetic practice focused on quick repetitive movements synchronized with powerful exhalations to detoxify, energize, and open the body and mind.  The alignment cues were minimal - and as a yoga therapist - I was worried about the members of our group with lumbar and shoulder issues.  My sense is that the acute focus on anatomy in the U.S.  is a point where East and West diverge.  Perhaps the truly integrated practice is a place where the  traditional practice, with its emphasis on spirituality and energetics, meets the modern view of wellness.

We ended with a lovely guided savasana, listening to the urban birds singing their Delhi morning songs.  As we came to standing - Swami Ji announced that we would be ending with Laughter Yoga, throwing his arms up into the air and releasing the most contagious laugh I have ever heard in my life!  We all joined in, arms extended toward each other with the Swami at the center of our circle.  “It is important every day to laugh”, he said.  “It releases stress and warms the spirit.”  Wise words from our wise teacher.  

Om Ananda Namaha.  

Honoring the energy of Bliss, on all levels of being.  

DINING FOR WOMEN - DELHI by Tina Romenesko and RAGGEDY ANN and BIG SISTER by Martha Walke

DINING FOR WOMEN - DELHI by Tina Romenesko

Our DFW adventure officially begins today, Wednesday, with everyone arriving throughout the day.  We meet at Grace Home - situated in a trendy area of South Delhi - and a small group of us share dinner together and get to know each other that evening.  After breakfast on Thursday, we officially meet in the third floor common room, and share our experience with DFW, an attribute we bring the group, and something we would like to work on personally while traveling in India.  Taryn is our fearless leader.  Newly transplanted in Portland, Maine, she has run several other DFW trips to Latin America, but this is the first time in India for all of us.  Martha is from Abilene Texas, and Debbie is from the Washington D.C. area.  The blogging team, whose voices you will get to know, are Donna from Vancouver, Washington, Betsy from Boise, Idaho, and myself, Tina from Milwaukee, Wisconsin.  The photographers are Susan, from Vancouver, B.C., Heather from Dubai via California, and Christine from Medford, OR.  Christine has a gift for each of us.  Stones, in a small elegant fabric bag, with a saying she wanted to share with each of us.  

We can throw our pebble in the pond and be confident that its ever widening circle will reach around the world.  Dorothy Day

All of us agree that this intention is a beautiful expression of this trip.  Our participation is in someways simple - like a pebble thrown into a pond - and our hope is to make a difference.  Not in big splashy ways, but subtly reaching out to raise our own consciousness, and also touch the hearts of the women we meet along the way that participate in DFW projects, and certainly beyond.  Each pouch contains a touchstone with a personal message for its taker.  Joy, Believe, Encouragement, Calm, Hope.  Dream.  Connect.  Stretch.  We are each pleased with our choice - such a thoughtful idea - and now her luggage is much lighter!  Thanks Christine.  

Our first outing was lunch - which lasted from 12:30 - 2:45 PM.  A true feast of Indian food which included yogurt kebabs, chicken malai tikka (which is very tender and cooked in a clay oven), cucumber raita, black lentil dal, palak paneer, biryani (rice with spices) and, of course, naan.  Not being very acquainted with Indian cuisine, I take copious notes, spelling each dish so I can order it back in Milwaukee.  Already my palate is becoming more accustomed to the spiciness!  The never ending lunch finally does end with either saffron ice cream with pistachios, or Susan’s favorite, gulab jamun,  a deep fried ball of dough with a pistachio nut in the center, swimming in sticky syrup. We are all much too full AND well acquainted as we head toward Qutab Minar in the van.

Our entourage includes a driver who changes daily while we are in Delhi, Sujata, our fearless guide who leads us through the streets as record pace and is a fountain of knowledge about Indian culture and history, and Ravi - assistant guide and male presence in the group that holds us safe on our journey.  The Qutab Minar is a 5 story minaret, which is part of a large Muslim complex in South Delhi.  The mosque is surrounded by pillars pilfered from destroyed Hindu temples when the Muslims took control of Delhi in the 12th century.  Each story is from a different era, with a slightly different style and carvings.  It is 72 meters high and was used as a victory tower and also the site of the call to prayer, 5 times daily.  We enjoy many photo opportunities and many of us experience our first invitation to pose for  photos with Indian families traveling to Delhi that would love to have a picture of their family, smiling with a foreigner.  At first this seems strange to me - but our guide in Rishikesh explained that this is a source of pride for the family - and a compliment to all.  I always try to ask the young people about their education (a tip from Taryn), and always make good eye contact with lots of smiles.  

Taryn has arranged Ayurvedic treatments for all of us at a Kairali Spa - which is an extension of a treatment center in Kerala in the South of India.  Most of us opt for Abhianga - a full body anointment in oil, done on a hard wooden table that looks like it was part of a torture chamber (I mean treatment center) from the Mugul period.  Needless to say, after full anointment on the front, it is challenging to slither, slide, and roll onto the belly for full anointment of the back!  The next step is a body steam.  They lead you to a wooden box that looks like what magicians use to cut women in half.  You sit on a small (and thankfully adjustable) bench and your practitioner closes the doors and turns on the steam to help absorb the oil into the pores of the body.  All agree that the combination of the copious amounts of  warmed oil, the rigorous massage, and the unexpected strength of the lovely. smiling  women  from Kerala that have uprooted their families to work here in Delhi, it was a lovely experience.  

_________________-

RAGGEDY ANN and BIG SISTER by Martha Walke

Having been forewarned not to give money to child beggars, I brought partial sets of hardly used crayons, colored pencils, etc. to give.  My opportunity came on the first day when I was approached by two girls about 10 years old.  One was carrying a young child, naked from the waist up.  She  stuck out her hand, and I gave her a bag of crayons.  A conversation ensued between her and the second girl, whose clothes were torn and ragged.  Our guide translated their conversation for me.  

Raggedy Ann:  “Do you go to school?”

Big sister:  “No.”

Raggedy Ann:  Well, I go to school.  You should give those crayons to me.”

Raggedy Ann:  My big brother goes to school.  I’m going to give them to him!”

Fortunately, I had another package in my bag for Raggedy Ann.  Thank you Lord for partially sets of hardly used crayons.

SUNRISE AND THE GREAT RIVER GANGA by Tina Romenesko

THE GREAT RIVER MOVES ME, FREES ME, AND MY HEART IS SWEPT UP IN JOY - Uvavnuk

About 11:00 PM, I realize we picked the wrong morning for a 4:00 A.M. trip to see the sun rise in the the Himalayas.  The Diwali firecrackers continue until after 2:00 - and I try really hard to remember the peacefulness of the Vasishta caves, to no avail.  Regardless, we are out the door, right on time, and headed for Kunja Puri, a mountaiin top temple honoring the many incarnations of the Goddess Shakti.  The drive up and into the Himalayas was itself breathtaking.  Toward the very top, the hairpin curves were guarded by large white pillars and bench-like structure with a bright red polka dots on the front.  The were strategically placed (Hari Om) and somewhat random at the same time.  Needless to say, Susan and I were wide eyed as we reached the summit.  We climbed 159 steps to the temple, which was perched on the highest point looking eastward.  The sky was endless layers of pink and light blue, the mountain darker blue and gray.  A fine mist rose above and below the horizon adding to the ethereal nature of the dawn.  

Then suddenly, a tiny speck of bright yellow peeked out  - and the entire sky changed color in one moment.  An amazing experience to greet the sun’s arrival over these sacred mountain.  We snap photos and stand quietly in contemplation.  Without moving, I am practicing Surya Namaskar (Sun Salutation).  The group is varied and as we are leaving, we stop at the temple to get a blessing from the monk, always in orange robes.  With his middle finger he places a dot on my third eye and decorates it with the Styrofoam coconut.  “Bindi?”, I say brightly?  “No.  Tika.  A bindhi is a decoration, but a Tika is a blessing.”  So much to learn.  Always.

The afternoon is rafting - We are both a little anxious about the rapids. There are 9 of us “tourists” in the boat  - four young Indian men on holiday, two college girls from Mumbai, one of their younger brothers and Susan and myself.  We introduce ourselves, smile a lot, and make numerous Indian/English jokes through translation on the ride up the canyon.  What a gift to spend the afternoon with teens on Diwali vacation.

The guides are your typical, pony tailed, athletic hippie types.  Our guide, Alli, is wearing a wet suit.  I suddenly remember Susan’s warning about liver sucking parasites in the Ganges….  They tease us royally about a 50-50 chance of overturning in the rapids, and when they ask Susan to put her watch in the dry bag, she knows we are in for a ride.  

She is right.  

In the summer, the Ganges overflows its banks and overtakes part of the city of RIshikesh, but in November it is at its lowest and most “fun” according to Alli.  One of the rapids we will be riding is class 4 (class 5 is the highest rating!) which makes the young men in our group very happy! Alli turns out to be a great guide.  His instructions are clear in the teaching and strong in the follow through.  We got soaked to the skin, in every rapid, and there is a lot of squealing and cheering.  What a great way to experience the flow of Mother Ganga.  

The ride into RIshikesh is much more tame.  Gentle rapids and the chance to view the shoreline filled with ancient steps, abandoned temples, and modern, albeit slightly dilapidated apartment buildings.  We both agree that our experience in the Ganges has been an anointing - a dropping into the actual experience of her clarity,

her beauty, and love.

Happy Diwali!! by Tina Romenesko

HAPPY DIWALI! November 3, 2013

Our personal celebration of Diwali began with a driver picking us up for a trip to the Vasishta Cave - about an hour from Rishikesh.  Anup had made arrangements - we weren’t exactly sure where we were going, but felt safe with his recommendations.  The trip was gorgeous - winding up through the Himalayas, along the Ganga River.  We see numerous rafting companies and immediately decide that Anup’s suggestion to go rafting tomorrow is a wonderful idea.  Sand beaches line the river and there is quite a drastic drop off down the slope of the mountains.  The Ganges is a greenish turquoise this time of year, and quite low, so our hope is that the rapids won’t be too crazy.  Susan has assured me that we do NOT want to be dumped out of the raft into the river due to various nasty parasites.  Good to know!  

Our driver pulls off along the side of the road and motions toward a staircase.  “Cave,” he says in broken English.  “Down there.”  So down we go - to a small Ashram.  A man is praying outside of the arrow that points to the cave.  There is a sign that explains that Vasishta is one of the 7 immortal sages.  He and his wife Arundhati spent several years here in seclusion and deep meditation..  It is believed that because of their dedication and Enlightenment, most people feel a profound sense of peace once in the cave.  Sounds good to me.

We walk over to the door and it is pitch black, except for a small altar up ahead, that is at the end of the cave.  I pull out my handy iPhone flashlight app and light our way through the short hallway with a very low ceiling.  To my surprise, a monk is meditating to the side of the altar, so I douse the light and we both sit down.  Our plan was to stay for 12 minutes of meditation, and I would set my handy iPhone world clock timer.  My Teacher Trainees know that I am a big fan of using timers for meditation, to alleviate the need to worry about the time allotted.  Well, it certainly seems like bad manners to set a timer in this cave, so I promise myself to simply enjoy the meditation and check the time when it “feels” like about 12 minutes.  As I find Sukhasana, my seated meditation posture, I immediately drop into a deep state of meditation.  Deeper in meditation than I have been in a long time.  It’s amazing.  My heart feels completely open and my energy body feels like it is humming in synchronicity with the entire Universe.  I begin with Kubera mudra - the god of wealth who must be the counterpart to Lakshmi, wealth’s goddess, but soon find my hands in Pushpunjali - the gesture of Apraigraha or Abundance (non-grasping).  My hands feel full, and then I gently pull them apart and feel myself letting go of that which I do not need to hold any longer.  Then they fill again, and I release again.  After a while, they feel like they are over flowing without end and I am filled with gratitude.  I am reminded of a line by Lalla, the 14th century female poet  from Northern India.

Meditate within eternity.

Don’t stay in the mind.

At some point two men come in and offer puja to the image of Shiva.  They kneel in front of the altar, bow, anoint the lingum on the altar with water, and back out.  We continue to sit for a few more minutes - the meditation is so intense that I can hardly be distracted.  It is stronger than any distraction my mind can create…... except for the distraction of wondering if Susan is okay and remembering that I am in charge of the time!  I pull myself away and look.  It’s been over 25 minutes.  Twice the time we agreed upon!  I feel the energy one more time, and smile at Susan.  We both get up and find our way easily back to the entrance, as the tunnel now seems much more bright.  She smiles at me and says that she too had an amazing meditation experience.  She was sending Metta (Kindness) to her family and her meditation also felt full and abundant. Neither could she believe that it had been 25 minutes!  Our first gift of Diwali!

Arundati’s cave is down closer to the Ganga, so we put on our shoes and follow the footprints in the sand toward the opening.  Her cave looks out over the river, and is much more shallow.  A monk in orange is meditating and looks like he has been there a very long time.  We take off our shoes and enter, looking outward toward the river.  Immediately we both feel that same energy of oneness.  This time I choose Vajrapradama Mudra - Vajra means diamond and Pradama is unshakable confidence.  It is the mudra that reminds me to have faith in the soul’s authentic journey.  As I sit again in effortless meditation, I feel Arundhati’s sacrifice of sitting for such a long time, holding sacred space for all who now enter this special place.  I thank her, and Vasishta, as we finish our meditaion.  The view is exquisite.  Vasishta’s cave looked into the depths, the silence, the stillness.  Arundhati’s cave looks out into the beauty of the world:  Mother Ganga, the sun, the wind, the rafters in their rubber boats, and the children playing in the sand.  We are both very grateful as we climb back up to the taxi - surrounded by a colorful cacophony of butterflies.  

We have lunch at the elegant Glass Hotel - and enjoy the best Indian food of my life.  Exquisite Eggplant Dal, Chicken Curry, Pakar Panner, and some yummy salad with the spicy radish I’m sure is either daikon or it’s Indian cousin, plus strawberry ice cream and some lovely sweet pastry.

When we get back to RIshikesh, we have the driver drop us at Rum Jhula.  We find an ATM and a small restaurant with WI- FI and I am finally able to post to my blog.  Success!  (I think!)

Back at the Ashram it is nightfall, and the entire grounds are lit by small clay bowls filled with oil in which they drape a heavy wick.  In the center of the yard, three mandalas made of marigolds and these special candles greet us.  The first,  is a Star of David, the second,  a Swastika, and the third, the symbol for Om.  All of the pathways throughout the Ashram are also lit as are the stairs, temple perimeters, and roof lines.  At the Meditation Hall, two special  mandalas have been created with a combination of colored sand, marigolds, and light.  

The Puja begins after dinner and the first hour is chanting, while the priests decorate images of Swami Rama and Lakshmi with malas, marigold garlands, candies, and money, and anointing them with water.  We are just beginning to tire from our day, and consider going back to the room, when everyone stands up and we begin to take turns waving metal trays filled with lit candles, in front of the two decorated images.  To our surprise,  Swami Veda arrives about then - in his wheelchair - and he also gets up and waves the trays in a circle, honoring both Swami Rama and our Goddess of Abundance and Wealth.  When he sits down, people go up to his wheelchair, one by one, kneel, and kiss his feet, as he places his hand on their head.  He especially loves it when the children come up.  He hugs and kisses them and smiles brightly.  His warmth is palpable - his kindness, magnetic.  You want to be close, in a way I really can’t describe.  Each participant is given a small bowl with offerings of food:  something that looks like coconut (and tastes like Styrofoam), a small cookie, and a piece of fruit.  Abundance is everywhere, for everyone during.  We are clapping and chanting and I can tell that the ceremony is soon coming to a close.  Some people continue to go up to Swami Veda and receive his blessing, and at the last minute, I hand Susan my small bowl of food and go to kneel at his feet.  I kiss them and look up.  Swami Veda looks me right in the eye and places his right hand on his heart.  I do the same and we both smile into each other’s eyes.  

I can’t explain how it felt.  Like a blessing - or maybe a cleansing.  A cleansing of my hurt and a remembering of wholeness.  But it was more than that.  Susan agreed that he had not given anyone else that same gesture.  I’ll never forget it.  It felt like God smiling at me, through him.  

Susan and I both remark, when we return to the room, how different India is from anywhere else we have traveled.  The Spiritual is everywhere, in everything - even in the beggars, and the traffic.  From the Diwali lights, to the sari-clad little girls at the Lakshmi Puja, everything here is a blessing to the Divine.  I have felt safe since the moment I arrived.  I don’t know at this point if it is Rishikesh, or all of India, but this place is really special.  

As we prepare for tomorrow’s sunrise in the Himalayas, we can’t imagine how this magic energy can continue for another 3 weeks!  And, we hope it does.  

Happy Diwali, and Shubhrati (Good Night).

DAYS 3 and 4 in RISHIKESH - WE MEET ANUP! by Tina Romenesko

DAYS 3 and 4 in RISHIKESH - WE MEET ANUP!

India is 10 ½ hours earlier than Milwaukee - not sure where the half hour goes, but that’s the calculation from my iPhone, so it must be true.  I have never traveled this far East - and the jet lag recovery is much more significant.  Last night I was awake from 1:30 - 5:30, and then fell into one of the deepest sleeps of my life for a full 3 hours.  Susan tried to wake me twice to no avail for breakfast.  Guess I was making up a few time zones ….

This morning is our initiation to Swami Rama Sadahka Grama and the Himalayn tradition.  Every guest receives a one-on-one initiation by a main teacher.  Our teacher, Pradeep, knocks on the door right at 10 and takes us to a room next to the Meditation Hall.  He is a dear man, with a very strong accent, Each session begins with 2 minutes of silence.  I like that - time to gather yourself and arrive in the moment for the practice, be it asana, pranayama, meditation, or a special class.  He tells us about Swami Rama - the original guru of this Ashram, and his devotee, Swami Veda, who has recently taken another vow of silence for 5 years, is around 82 years of age, and will be returning to the Ashram November 2.  

Then he launches into a discussion of Ashtanga Yoga or the Eight Limbs of Yoga as described by Patanjali.  As a yoga nerd, I find this all fascinating.  The correct pronunciation of Sanskrit + his interpretation of each limb from Yama and Niyama to Samadhi = very authentic.  We spend a lot of time on fine tuning our meditation posture, which Susan finds very valuable.  She has no yoga experience and is a runner so her muscles are tight.  “Obtaining the ultimate meditation posture is Samadhi, or enlightenment”, he encourages, as he puts a blanket on her chair and encourages her to connect with the natural curves of her spine.  “A strong foundation is the best guru”.   We both find our strong foundation - me on the earth, Susan in a chair - and off we go into a discussion of breathwork or pranayama.  The focus in the Himalayan tradition is on making the breath even and fluid, with no breaks between the inhalation and exhalation.  Pranayama is a means of learning to control the breath, but in meditation, fluidity is the goal.  “The breath should be fluid, like the Ganga.  Mind flowing like a river”.  

We are lead through a short, and very enjoyable sequence, that begins with one of my favorite poses, Makarasana or Crocodile Pose.  We spend about 5 minutes practicing fluid, even breathing, while lying on our bellies, forehead resting on the back of the hands.  Then we roll over onto our backs and are brought through a full body relaxation.  After that we sit - in a chair or on the floor - with the pelvis elevated on a blanket - and meditate using a silent mantra which is either the name of your God or a the sound of SO on the in-breath, and HAM on the out-breath.  I opt for SO-HAM and have a very enjoyable experience.  Not quite Samadhi, but a few moments of peace.  We end by placing the hands over the eyes, further relaxing the forehead and seat of the Sixth Chakra or Ajna - the location of the conscious mind.  

Susan and I decide we need to get into town, and hire a Tuk-Tuk just outside the gates of the Ashram.  It’s quite an adventure, getting to Lakshman Jhula, the second foot bridge over the Ganges, the runs through the center of Rishikesh.  Our experience is eye opening.  Lots of vendors and people - kind of chaotic.  We have lunch looking over the Ganges and see rafters below, heading through the rapids that end right in town.  There are tall tall temples all around the banks and numerous Ashrams.  It’s lovely and a bit confusing and lovely and confusing.  

We are lucky enough to meet Anup the next day.  He is a friend of Marty Tribble, great yogini of Milwaukee, and she has put us in touch via Facebook.  I had called Anup after our confusing day and are meeting him the next morning, Saturday, at 11:00.  He is lovely and not a bit confusing.  He guides us through the city, stopping at the Parmath Nikten Ashram that is right on the Ganges and has beautiful gardens and much much history.  We see a giant Swastika on one of the walls and Anup explains that a Swastika was originally a good sign - indicating the beginning of something new.  Hitler stole it and distorted its meaning.  Hannuman, Vishnu, Ram, Sita - all the Gods and Goddesses are depicted on the grounds in statues and paintings.  We returned later that evening in time for the Arati, or fire ceremony at sunset on the shores of the Ganga with chanting and lots of audience participation - all focused on honoring the sacred river of life.  The Guru is loving and inviting to us all - a true holy man.  

Anup makes arrangements for the rest of our stay.  A holy cave tomorrow.  Sunrise in the Himalayas on Monday, and the sacred city of Haridwar on Tuesday.  Confusing?  This place is amazing!  Our hearts are filled with gratitude for meeting Anup (and to Marty-Ji for connecting us).  The rest of the day is spent in cozy internet cafes - chatting with other travelers and eating grilled veggies - Yay! - and of course shopping.  Anup shows us the more relaxed side of the tracks and we have a blast buying kurtas (Indian shifts) and browsing the vendors and laughing.  We have gone from confused tourists to savvy travelers.  

We ride the Tuk Tuk back home in the dark , accompanied by fireworks and garlands of light that hang from most balconies and roof lines - like Christmas lights back home.  What a day!