Travel Adventures, Nicaragua style

Little Corn Island

by Tina Romenesko

The day began at 6:00 a.m. at the dock in Pearl Lagoon, which was a block away from the Green Lodge. Anne and I had always planned to take this boat and fly to Big Corn Island for part two of our adventure, and after the long bus ride a week ago, Dr. Pam’s family, Sallie, and Reva, had also opted for a boat and a flight.  Each leg would be about one hour in length compared to 10 1/12 on the bus.  Dr. Pam’s daughter Alegra had thrown up 9 times on the 10 ½ hour bus ride and they prudently decided that this would be a much better option!  It was a beautiful sunny day - and ride was gorgeous along the inter-coastal waterway.  Parrots.  Kingbirds.  Egrets.  Cormorants.  and Miles and Miles of unspoiled Carribbean coastline.   We stopped for gas at Kukra Hill, where one ambulance-load-full of women had come from, at clinic, which gave us much more perspective on their journey.

As we had heard, Blufields was a little rough - and since we had 7 hours to wait - Anne, Reva, and I opted for breakfast at the South Atlantic Hotel, upstairs.  “It’s a good spot”, whispered an ex-pat sitting on the porch. That was all the push we needed, so in we went - and they had Wi-Fi.  :)

After recollecting ourselves with the traditional breakfast of eggs sunny side up, gallo pinto, salty cheese, and wonder bread toast, we ventured down the street, rolling our suitcases behind us on the cobblestones.  We hardly looked like tourists....  Eventually we made our way to the market - which was shabby inside and out, and filled with treasures.  I had heard that there was a stall where an old woman (la viejieta) sold herbal medicines and teas from the rainforest.  After asking 2 vendors about her, the third finally sent me in the right direction.  She was tiny, wrinkled, and a little terse, as I asked about a medicine for my sun blister.  Did I say she was tiny?  Honestly, she came up to my waist at most.  I bent down to hear her answer.  “No.  Nothing for my painful “ampolla”, but how about this tea to help you sleep - it’s also good for your riňones (kidneys)?” .  She showed us roots for men’s prostates, special seeds on necklaces for children to wear if they are ill-tempered, and rosemary tea for immunity.  I opted for the kidney potion, tilo, and gave her 5 cordobas.  “Can I take our picture?”  “Sí.”  As we posed for Reva, we both smiled in recognition of the many differences in our experiences, overtly reflected in our statues.  But we had communicated across these boundaries - and I had a new tea in my backpack, from the rainforests of Nicaragua.  My kidneys will be grateful for the inquiry, I’m sure.

We arrived at La Costeňa Airlines around noon - after spending an hour in the Parque Central.  The rain had started up again - as we settled in for a long wait.  Our plane from Blufields to Big Corn was delayed because of the aguaceros (or squalls) - and even so - we took off in a driving rain.  It's only about a 20 minute flight,  but it was obvious that we wouldn’t make the last panga (boat) for Little Corn.  Enter Twyla - the owner of the Cuban restaurant on LCI (Little Corn Island).   As we landed in the 8 seater plane, she took us under her wing, shuffling us into a crowded taxi.  “The panga drivers know the flight is late - they’ll wait for us”.  Wait for her is more like it - everybody seems to know Twyla.  She is carrying a large plastic basket filled with mint for Mojitos at the restaurant.  I REALLY like this woman!  .  When we got to the port - we were hustled onto the waiting panga - guys were grabbing our bags - backpack and poof!  We were on the boat, under a big plastic tarp and we were off.  

When it rains, the passengers hold a large tarp over their heads, in unison, like a make shift roof.  Well.  The swells were pretty amazing - and all I could see was the inside of the boat and the tarp, which I was holding onto for dear life - pressing down on my head and face.  We hit a couple of big swells and I thought my stomach might end up in my lap.  I used all my yoga tool box not to barf - during the 30 minute trip - which seemed like about 30 hours.  Twyla saw my fear - and kept reassuring me from the seat behind me.  "It's okay Tina.  Hang on - we are almost there - look out - now you can see the island!"  So sweet of her to help us.  

A young man with a wheel barrow was waiting for us at the dock.  There are no cars on the island, so wheel barrows are used to schepp equipment to and from the hotels, as needed.  We hugged Twyla good-bye, promising to stop by her place for a mojito in the near future and headed down the path.  We wandered through farm fields, through a marsh, and trampsed alongside a couple of modest family homes, acccompanied by cows, egrets, pigs, chickens, and the ubiquitous Nica dogs.  Eventually we figured out the Little Corn Island B and B is on the OTHER side of the island!  Upon arriving we were given a much needed piňa colada and within moments had showered and were sitting down to dinner with a glass of cold white Argentinian wine.  Perfecto!  Safe and sound in our new island abode.  :)

The diving here has been phenomenal.  The reefs are some of the best I have experienced.  Period.  Purple Sea Fans in full splendor.  Colorful healthy coral.  And a wide variety of sea life.  Our dive master, Gary, is incredible - always stopping to show us huge nurse sharks, camouflouged Spanish rays, tiny drum fish, and of course the Disco Fish!  Gary is delightful in his professionalism and his vast knowledge of sea life, and he takes very good care of us!  Probably my favorite sighting was a large Hermit Crab who had taken up residence in a Conch shell.  I’d never seen a crab home of quite that magnitude.  Must be old money.....  

Diving in the morning at 9 - and then spending the rest of the day blowing off nitrogen and enjoying other aspects of the island Then back in the panga at 6:30 a.m. to head for Blufields and then the flight to Managua.  May the travel gods be with us - especially for the Managua connection!

As Anne and I were walking back from the dive shop today, we mused on the great variety of this adventure.  What a special treat.  Languages, landscapes, accomodations, people, work, rest, and activity.  From Laguna de Apoyo to the Caribbean sea - from the hard work at the clinic to a glass of white wine on the beach at dusk - its all been a grand adventure into the heart of Nicaragua.  With much gratitude.  Namaste.