MOSQUES, TEMPLES, and MORE by Tina Romenesko
Among the most interesting aspects of Delhi for me, is the inclusion of many magnificent temples from many different religions.
Yesterday we passed by the Baha’i Lotus Temple. It was built in 1986 and is the newest temple of its tradition in the world. The building was inspired by the lotus flower, and is composed of 27 Grecian marble petals, arranged in clusters of three to form nine sides. It has 9 doors and 9 pools surrounding it on the spacious grounds. We opted not to stand in the long line and go inside - the interior of all Baha’i temples is quite stark - as its primary purpose is for meditation. It is truly an architectural wonder and is one of the most visited sites in Delhi.
Day Two we tried desperately to get to the Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in Asia, before afternoon prayers. Unfortunately, the traffic in Chandni Chowk (the surrounding market) was so congested and crazy we arrived too late for entry. Only Muslims are allowed inside during call to prayer. With a little help from Sujata, two of our photographers, Susan Ackland and Christine Schwartz, were able to get up to the door and take photos for 300 rupees. It is always awe inspiring to witness the Muslim call to prayer. Prayer rugs, families, and of course the ritual of prayer itself. The Jama Masjid was built between 1650 and 1656 and can accommodate 25,000 worshippers. Since we couldn’t get in, we opted for a bicycle rickshaw ride around the narrow alleyways of Chandni Chowk. Two by two we zig zagged through the chaos that had earlier delayed our arrival - and now was filled with a million different delights! There are many wholesale sari shops in this area that sell the beautiful fabric most Americans know only from Bollywood movies. They also sell the sequins, appliques, and bling! None of us were up for 12 saris, the minimum purchase, but we certainly enjoyed window shopping from our rickshaw.
The next stop was the Laxminarayan Hindu temple - dedicated to the goddess Lakshmi and Lord Vishnu, who is referred to as Narayan when in the company of the Goddess of Wealth and Abundance (remember her from Diwali?) Built in 1939, the three story, yellow and red building is filled with a variety of altars honoring the many incarnations of Krishna, Shiva, Vishnu, Shakti, Saraswati, Hannuman, and Ganesha, et al. It even includes an altar and image of the Buddha - as he is believed to be an avatar of Vishnu. Sujata, our guide, believes that Hinduism is more of a way of life than a religion. She also taught us about the god that is honored in the month of November - a lesser known deity named Kartik, who along with Ganesha, is a son of Shiva. His vehicle is the peacock and he will be the inspiration for the Pushkar Festival that we will be attending in a few days!
On the way toward the India Gate and government buildings, we pass the white and gold Sikh temple. Taryn Walker celebrated Diwali (a national holiday with spiritual roots) at the temple with Sanjeev, our host at Grace House. She asked about the background of the Sikh garb. He replied that the clothing and turbans were originally intended to make the men look fierce, and that Sikhs were originally Hindus that decided it wasn’t necessary to pray to all the Gods and Goddesses - otherwise their beliefs are similar. Interestingly, Sanjeev’s wife is Pentecostal, so his wife and two daughters were dropped off at their own place of worship for Diwali - a celebration celebrated across all religions in India. We didn’t visit any Christian cathedrals, but Sacred Heart in Delhi is large and well known. Generally, there are more Catholics in the South and more Protestants in the North.
Religious tolerance hasn’t always been the stalwart of India - during the Partition, many Muslims chose to move to the newly formed state of Pakistan. After much killing and politically driven outrage, the country seems to have come to terms with its ethnic and religious diversity. Muslims are called to prayer, children form long lines to enter the Hindu temple, everyday the Sikhs prepare 3 meals a days for the hungry, and the Baha’i welcome all to enter and meditate in their lavish lotus temple. But the most poignant example comes a few days later in Jaipur, where the Anchal Project local leaders have created a home based sewing cooperative for young Muslim women living in the slums, to provide a stable source of income for basic family necessities. The director of this project, Jaimala, is not Muslim, but clearly these projects are driven from the heart, and completely free of religious bias. A strong reminder that when we strip away the exterior facade of our differences, we all share the same basic human wants and needs regardless of race, color, or creed.
Laxminarayan Hindu Temple - Delhi, India
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